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Price: $11.23

INDIAN
Poabs Organic Seethargundu Estate - Poabs Organic Estate, traditionally called Seethargundu. There is almost too much to say about the farm’s wholistic approach, which goes farm beyond it’s Organic certification. In order to do agriculture right, they believe in diversity and not mono-cropping, so they have tea, cardamom, all types of pepper, a dairy, a fish farm, poultry, biodynamic herbs and extensive composting. It is one of only 2 Demeter Biodynamic certified coffee farms in the world, the state. When the Poabs Group took over in 1989, the Seethargundu estate was in a derelict condition, existing in an abandoned state for 16 years. They also had labor disputes with the former owner to resolve. All obstacles aside, it has to be about the cup quality and the backstory is not relevant. But this coffee is impressive in the cup.
This is the nicest wet-process India I have cupped in a couple years. The aromatics form an intriguing and complicated sensual image, in anticipation of the cup flavors. The dry fragrance has a clean nutty tone in its roast aspect, and unique spices. The fragrance is almost savory, and reminds me of Kefta spice mix, with aromatic wood scents as well. The wet aroma is slightly fruited with baked apple, with cinnamon and allspice. The cup is complex, loaded with exotic spices as well as possessing a striking brightness. In fact, I feel unqualified to describe this unique blend of savory spices. There is sage, cardomom, a little cumin, cinammon stick, as well as dried coffee fruit (qishr, cascara), apple cider ... it’s complex! While somewhat rustic, like a dry-processed coffee, it is also accented with a clean and well-defined fruit acidity. And this persists throughout the roast range; I had trouble telling which were the lighter roasts and darker roasts because of this remarkable and consistent brightness from City+ through Full City+. It seems to do well with any roast level. The body is thick, especially considering it is a wet-process coffee. It finishes with a potent sweetness, somewhat rustic and cedary, but clean. There is just a tiny bit of campfire/woody flavor in the long aftertaste of FC+ roast. Cupping credit: Tom Owen.
Processing: Wet; Varietal: Selection 795, Selection 9; Appearance: 16-18 screen.
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